Monday 30 April 2012

Benefits of Annie Sloan Soft Wax

***Please note that we have closed comments regarding Chalk Paint. Carte Blanche are no longer stockists and the paint has changed in UK a little and we feel that we can no longer comment accurately about its performance as we could in the past. We hope that the article and comments below are useful but for technical advice we would suggest contacting your local supplier or speaking to Oxford - Annie Sloan Head Quarters***

So you have completed the painting of your piece of furniture in Annie Sloan® Chalk Paint™ and you have completed it in record time because you didn't need to strip, prime or even sand it but now you need to seal it and Annie Sloan® recommend  Annie Sloan™ Soft Wax.

The wax in action in the studio
So why should you use Annie Sloan™ Soft Wax and what makes it different from just any old furniture wax? Annie chose this wax for good reasons and there are a lot of benefits to this wax that we can share with you here.

  • First of all it is soft...I know that's a bit obvious given it is called "soft wax" but Annie Sloan® Soft Wax is buttery soft and so application is easy with a brush or cloth (more on brushes below). It also means that you can get it absorbed into all the nooks and crannies.
  • Next it is compatible with the paint ....and not all topcoats are. It is part of a system. That means we can also advise you about use, troubleshoot and if you use something else we as stockists can't necessarily help.
  • It buffs to a beautiful soft lustre 
  • You can mix it with the paint to make a coloured wax (keep reading, I know it sounds bizarre)
  • and to me THIS IS THE BIGGY!!!!!!! Annie Sloan® Soft Wax has no drying accelerator. "Oh Wow" I can hear you say in a sort of underwhelmed sort of a way but wait....let me tell you why that is important. Wax dries and hardens when the solvent evaporates from the surface and most of the waxes on the market have a drying accelerator in to speed this process up. The accelerator drives the solvent off the surface so it dries almost as fast as you apply and drives it where???? STRAIGHT INTO YOUR LUNGS. Annie Sloan® Soft Wax dries and hardens naturally and the solvent evaporates probably mainly while you are off having a cup of tea. 

sit back and wait for the wax to dry
 Now, don't get me wrong, this product still has a solvent and I am not about to suggest that you climb inside a cupboard and wax it with the door closed....this would not be good. But for normal waxing this product is not going to leave you head-achy and with a lung full of solvent whereas I know from experience how horrid others can be for your health.
Because the wax dries slowly you do also need to let it dry...properly...before you buff.



Top Tips For Using Annie Sloan Soft Wax
new wax brush - call the studio 01738 587600 they are in stock now!
  1. Apply thin coats and work the wax in well. You can use a cloth or the new wax brush. The wax might look like lard but try not to dig huge lumps out and just lard it on. If you have too much on, wipe off the excess with a clean cloth 
  2. The new wax brush applies the wax evenly and especially over large areas is going to make life easier and the job quicker
  3. For kitchen units and high traffic areas apply 3 coats. Allow each coat to dry before applying the next - I would wait overnight
  4. WAIT BEFORE BUFFING!!!!!!! This will make your life so much easier. Best for buffing is an old towel and if you leave it to dry it makes it much less work. Not only that if you buff over wax that isn't dry, you may harden the top of it leaving the thin wax beneath soft. Then when you put a cup or mug on it it will break through the surface leaving rings
  5. Put Annie Sloan™ clear wax on before applying the Annie Sloan™ dark wax. Over large areas use the clear wax to control how much of the dark wax remains on the surface. This is something we cover in the classes and can be a little tricky for someone new to the process, so practice....have a sample board to hand to play with before you do your lovely furniture.


applying the dark wax
To sum up, most problems are caused by :
  • too much wax being applied
  • buffing too soon
  • rushing the process

One final tip. Every now and again the solvent from the wax sucks straight into the paint and makes it look a little patchy - bear in mind that the paint can be applied, thickly, thinly, roughly, smoothly and every hand is different. This happens for a variety of reasons - thickness of paint, texture of paint, atmospheric conditions -  and invariable frustrates folk. IT WILL GO...once the solvent evaporates completely it will be fine but this may take time. Remember that you don't buy Annie Sloan® Chalk Paint™ because you wanted it to look like Dulux and so please don't stress about it.

If you want to get rid of it now and diminish the look of patches, maybe because it is for sale, maybe because you are just like that then there is a wee technique



Making coloured wax
 See how there is a blob of wax in the surface in this picture? And then a blob of paint added in....well that makes a coloured wax. I KNOW, I KNOW this shouldn't be possible (another benefit) and believe me I have tried to work out why it works ....these days I just accept it. Anyway if you want to blend out any dark patches just use the paint you have used on the piece (this picture obviously is using a contrasting colour) and mix with the wax and work over the area. 

I hope this has demystified the wax....and also helped you understand the best ways to apply it. Happy waxing guys!!

73 comments:

  1. Hello Painty Cait! What a fab explanation of the waxes! I will be using this as gospel! Vikki @atelier_be

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  2. Thanks for this info Cait - I'm just getting round to trying that paint out I bought from you ages ago. Doing a test run on a few small cabinets before I tackle the living room coffee table. Not managed to do much yet but one coat of paint. Think I need two to be honest - do I sand the paint before waxing or do you do the sanding after you've waxed. You mention buffing there's no mention of sanding... if I do need to sand, what grade of sandpaper would you recommend?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Evie, try 240 grit or 180 sandpaper. You can sand either before or after. If you sand before be very careful, it is difficult to see how much paint you have removed and it is more controllable to do it and less dusty to do it after....try both maybe on a sample and see what you think
      Have fun

      Delete
  3. Hopefully going to have a little time this afternoon if Milo goes down for a nap to give it a go. Done two coats of paint on one cabinet and drawers, so just need to wax and sand.

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    Replies
    1. How did it go?...did it go? or did Milo put a spanner in the works?
      I hope you'll post pics on the Facebook page when done.

      Delete
  4. I managed to do some waxing but not sanding - hoping to do that tonight - everything is done in short sporadic bursts at the moment - all a bit fractious but I'll get there in the end.

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  5. the joy of Annie Sloan Paint is that you can do that :) can't wait to meet Milo!

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  6. Would it be possible to apply this Annie Sloan soft wax (dark) as a way to age and stain something (like an art doll) painted with acrylic paints? I make historically based dolls that I want to have an aged patina and wonder if this product would work for that.

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  7. It would work but it isn't what I would choose for a non-absorbent surface like yours. I would want something like an acrylic wax that I could tint and would act as a sealant. We sell a product this wax, we are out of stock at the moment but if you want to call e studio in the morning I can talk you through it and see if it is suitable - 01738 587600

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  8. my stockist is out of the clear wax can I wait a couple days after painting to wax my piece?
    Thanks , Marian

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  9. Yes it will be absolutely fine as long as you keep it clean and dry.

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  10. Hi Cait. I'm having some problems with the wax. It seems to have dried so hard that buffing is just not doing anything at all. I'm rubbing and rubbing with an old tea towel, and its just not buffing up. What am I doing wrong?

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  11. I suspect you have too little wax on the surface...try putting some on your cloth and buffing that way. If that doesn't work come back to me.

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  12. Thanks for this info!
    Unfortunately, I clear waxed & then buffed while it was still fresh & tacky (very TIRING!!). But now I have a lovely glow-y finish and hopefully the wax will harden all the way through and not be soft underneath as you mention above! Question: Can I still dark wax over this buffed finish? THANKS!

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  13. Hi, if the wax doesn't feel tacky or sticky then you should be fine.

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  14. Hi! I am painting and waxing for the first time ever today. I am painting a dresser for my baby's nursery (I am due next month!). I want to paint the dresser all one color and then paint a design (a tree) on part of it. My question is: should I wax the base coat before painting on the design and then paint the design on top of the waxed surface, or should I paint on the design BEFORE waxing the whole thing? Sorry if this seems like a silly question!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I am SO sorry...I have been able to approve comments from my email inbox but unable to log in for an age. Finally I can reply and I hope and I am not too late.
      Bethany I would paint the design first and then wax but beware of the reds over light colours, the pigment level is very very high and so I seal quickly with a wipe of wax and then leave to harden and then wax again otherwise the pigment can smear. I am just guessing here as I have never waxed the reds over let's say Old White as a design but I have had a bit of a smear happen when waxing a red that has been distressed over white. I hope that makes sense.

      Delete
  15. Hi there,
    I also painted for the first time this weekend. I painted, put a clear wax coat, put a dark wax, and then a clear wax. Now it has been a day and a half and it is still sticky/damp. Any suggestions? Do you think it was too thick of coats? Or maybe I didn't wait long enough in between coats? Also, what do you mean exactly by buffing? Towel or sand paper? And should I do that now? Thanks for the tips. :)
    -Victoria

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    Replies
    1. I am about to repeat myself (sorry but I am not sure if this gets into an individual email inbox as a single reply so those reading this as a thread...sorry to be boring)
      I am SO sorry...I have been able to approve comments from my email inbox but unable to log in for an age. Finally I can reply and I hope and I am not too late.
      You have put too much wax on. Buffing is about polishing to your designed sheen. I buff with an old towel.
      I am wondering if it has hardened yet and if it hasn't come back to me and we can discuss removal and starting again

      Delete
  16. Help! I have a corner cabinet that I have painted all three sides with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint-Florence color and have waxed the entire front and shelves with the clear wax. Being stingy with my clear wax, I was wondering if I could use something else to seal the back two sides that will not be seen? Shellac maybe? Thanks so much for your help.

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  17. Dorothy, you could just not seal them at all, but yes you could use shellac or varnish if you really wanted to seal them

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  18. Hello!
    I have just painted my kitchen cupboard doors with Old White chalk paint - 2 coats - and I have applied my first layer of clear soft wax. My problem is that I don't like the colour! My fault, but it's too white and looks like TipEx - I wanted something slightly creamier. I don't want to have to redo it all, so could I mix some new chalk paint (in cream - the colour I should have chosen) with some soft wax and apply that for my next 2 layers? Would that help to make it creamier? Or do I have to repaint, and if so is it OK that I've already done one coat of wax?
    I hope this makes sense and would be so grateful for any help!
    Georgie

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    Replies
    1. Yes
      No
      Yes
      It made perfect sense....hope my answer does too. Your solution is a great one, but maybe make a sample and check you like the results

      Delete
    2. So quick - thank you!
      So colouring the wax from now won't give me the new creamy colour I want but I could redo. Is that right?
      (And it's OK to paint over wax, yup?)

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  19. Using the coloured wax will give it a cloudy creaminess not solid cream....I think it will look rather good. Painting strait over new wax isn't the best thing you can do....you are better to leave it to harden, but it will work.

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  20. Hi, Thanks for the tips. I was googling for mug ring marks on painted furniture and found your article. I think I was doing the same wrong thing that you mentioned: buffing before letting it dry. I put hot coffee mug on my painted dresser and now it has a ring :(.

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  21. Do not despair....get the wax out again and first off try to just repair using the wax. Just try working the ring out with the wax and you might be just fine. If not, then try a swipe with white spirit. Soak a cloth and just swipe over the surface with only a very little pressure and then let it dry. See if the mark is gone...proceed like this gently till the mark is gone and then rewax...should be fine

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  22. Help! I have painted a bedside table in Original and have sealed with clear wax. All was fine but then I decided to pick out the detail with metalic gold paint. It should dry in 4 hours. It has now been more than 24hours and it's not drying. A friend suggested it may be because the gold paint is oil based and I'm putting it on a waxed surface - also oily, and that it will NOT dry. I don't know what to do, wiping off the gold with white spirit will destroy the whole thing. Varnish?

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  23. Hi Angela I'm afraid your friend is sort of right. Actually the only paint that will go over wax is Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. The oil paint may not dry at all and even if it does it won't have a very good hold. Definitely don't varnish over the wax.....that really will be a mess.
    It should skin over eventually but it could take an age.
    I think you have 2 choices, sit with it and see if it will skin and then you could give it a wee sand or...wipe off and start again.If you wipe it off another coat of Original and a wax would probably sort it.
    Gilding wax is the right thing to use. Or, you can pick out the detail and allow it to dry before waxing and it will be fine.
    I wish I could give you better news

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  24. This is my first time i visit here.
    I found so many interesting stuff in your blog especially its discussion.
    From the tons of comments on your articles, I guess I am not the only one having all the enjoyment here!
    keep up the good work.

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  25. I have a problem....I've just stained a table that I made out of pine a very dark color. I wanted it to remain flat so I decided to use wax instead of poly and I hate it. I was my fault I put a nuetral wax on and now it is cloudy and almost looks bumpy(although it isn't). HELP I have no idea how to fix it I buffed it so much that the stain isn't even as dark as it was and yet it still looks cloudy. Can I go over it with stain? or will it not adhear to the wax?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Kassie, am so sorry you didn't get a reply, I did post one but for some reason Blogger isn't posting them ....hopefully I have resolved the issue today.
      You need to remove the wax. Nothing goes over wax except Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. Sounds like you either applied too much wax or that there was moisture in the surface when you waxed.
      Remove with white spirit (mineral spirits)

      Delete
  26. DO I do the dark wax AFTER the clear wax coats have dried AND been buffed or BEFORE the clear wax has been buffed?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Once again, I am so sorry you didn't get a reply, I did post one but for some reason Blogger isn't posting them ....hopefully I have resolved the issue today.
      Dark wax after clear and if you want maximum control, work wet on wet.

      Delete
  27. I have an old desk I have finished painting, coating with clear wax, coating again with clear wax, and waxing with dark wax. Now, all I want to do is use the dang thing, lol. It has been about 72 - 84 hours since I was finished (I just know if was sometime Friday night what I was satisfied with it). I have read mixed things about waiting a period of time for the wax to "cure" before actually using the piece. I plan to use this as my daily work desk from 9 - 5 everyday and have my iMac set up non-stop on it. Because it will be so heavily used, I just want to confirm whether or not I need to wait any longer before I set up shop on top of it. What do you think? Oh, I also have already buffed it too. I just do not want to end up with indentions in the top of the desk from where my computer was sitting on top of the wax possibly too soon. Thank a lot for the advice!

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    Replies
    1. Hayley, huge apologies, your post has been waiting moderation for days and I just found it last night in a pile of emails after returning from a training course......of course on top of that, I wrote a long reply and for some reason Blogger hasn't been posting them as i mentioned above. Hopefully I have resolved the issue today and as long as I preview first it posts (strange)
      Anyway, you probably got bored waiting and have just done it .....it should be fine as long as you didn't put too much wax on. If it does mark come back to me.

      Delete
  28. Thanks very much for this post. It's very helpful. I am pretty new when using Annie Sloane's soft wax and I recently painted and wax an old coffee table. The problem I have is that it doesn't have a smooth and flawless appearance. It shined (buffed) up nicely in some spots and still looks cloudy in other places. Also, my kids rode their cars on it several days later and there is now scratches all over the top. Did I apply too much wax? Can you suggest how this can be fixed? Help!!!

    Crystal

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    Replies
    1. Sounds like too much wax and buffed too soon. Sorry...you can remove wax with white spirit (mineral spirits) or sand it off and start again

      Delete
    2. Actually....not start again, but if you sand you may want to give it another wee coat before waxing again.

      Delete
    3. Thanks so much for your advice. I think that is exactly what I did. When I post about my experience with soft wax, would you mind if I referenced this blog post? This was so helpful! Thanks again. I look forward to reading more from you.

      Crystal

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    4. Crystal, I would be delighted if you did so. I am desperate to re-start this blog.....haven't posted in months, but it is this month's ambition to post every 10 days. I better gat going....not long till the 10th

      Delete
  29. Hi Cait. I was hoping you could help. I have painted a wardrobe in Old white chalk paint and have just got round to waxing with clear soft wax. The wax brush ive used has left small particles of bristle in the wax and also, i am aware that it goes on darker, however, as it is now drying it appears to be patchy and streaky and still looks dark? I have felt the wax and it is quite dry (maybe not enough wax?)but im still to do a second coat.

    Firstly - Shall i sand the wardrobe with fine sandpaper before applying a coat over the top to help remove some of the small bristle particles?
    Secondly - Can i mix old white with the clear wax to deliver a whiter appearance and if so to what ratio do you mix the two?

    I hope this makes sense! Thanks in advance :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. To remove the bristle bits, yes, sand out with fine sandpaper. The streaky can be that you only put one coat onto a dark base and although it looked solid the wax shows up thin and thick patches. It can be uneven application and this can happen on a cold day...the wax a bit hard and it doesn't soak in evenly leaving some dry patches. You can try popping the tin on a radiator, with the lid slightly off, to soften the wax. You can add paint to the wax. The way I do it is to get a plate or a palette of some sort, put a blob of wax on it and in the middle of that make a well....a bit like baking, pop some paint in and blend...too much paint and it will become stiff to apply. The other product we often use and we also sell in the online store is liming wax. This gives a shimmery whiteness that I love....shimmery because of its clarity of whiteness as opposed to a metallic shimmer.

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  30. Hi! I'm tackling my first paint project on an old kitchen table and chairs. I am using the Graphite with dark wax. I waxed the chairs and now there seems to be streaks and looks uneven in several places. I plan to buff tomorrow but am pretty sure the streaks and uneven marks wont budge. How can I fix with out sanding? Also, if I apply another coat of dark wax, should I buff in between or can I just add another coat once the first coat is dry? I have 3 young children so this table will be worn A LOT!

    Thank you!!!
    SarahJoy

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  31. Hi SarahJoy, sorry not to reply earlier, I have been on the move. First of all did you seal the Graphite first with clear wax or did you go straight in with the dark wax. If you went straight in with the dark wax that is the problem....if you read the article above (#5) I mention always using the clear wax first. This is very important as it allows the dark wax to flow onto the surface instead of being sucked into the dry paint.
    If that's what you've done then you need to probably whip off the wax with some white spirit (AKA mineral spirits if you are in USA) then you would need to start the wax process again...sorry, a coat of clear and work the dark in as you go.
    Buffing between coats isn't necessary, you need only buff the top coat.
    If this is going to take the hammering you describe then I would go 3 coats of wax.
    Hope that helps

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  32. Hope you can help.
    I have just repainted a Welsh Dresser in "Farrow and Ball" (Am I allowed to say that name?)
    I intend to use Annie Sloan on my next project...
    Would Annie Sloan Soft Wax be compatible with this paint(Water Based)
    Many Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Of course you can say the F&B name...we use F&B a LOT too.
      I am not sure what you are asking though....are you asking if you can wax over F&B Estate Eggshell? You can but I can't quite see the point, Estate Eggshell is a finished product and very hard wearing, if you prepared the surface correctly it should be fine just as it is.
      If I have misunderstood get back to me.

      Delete
    2. Sorry for confusion. I was asking if I should wax over F&B Estate Eggshell (Pointing No.2003).
      I have seen quite a few projects that people have for sale and a few state that they have used F&B and then waxed it with clear wax for durability. If this is correct, have you any recommendations or should i leave the wax well alone.

      Delete
    3. Well if you wax it you will never be able to paint it again with F&B...no paint except Annie Sloan Chalk Paint will go over wax...so you would be unable to touch up or anything. I think this waxing over eggshell thing is BS....actually I know it is. Forget the wax. If you did your prep, put on a decent primer before you started and sanded between coats it will wear well. F&B eggshell is an excellent paint

      Delete
  33. Many Thanks for your Expert Advice.
    I have saved your page into my Favourites.
    All the Best
    John

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  34. Hi there. Let me first say that I have learned so many tips from you. Many thanks for that! I have a question -I spray painted a mirror frame in black with a satin sheen. I want to give it an aged look. Can I use Annie Sloan dark wax over the spray painted finish? I also want to add some gold gilding. If I can use the AS dark wax, should I then buff it before adding the gilding? Many thanks!

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    Replies
    1. Hi, there, glad the tips have helped. Hopefully we will have some videos soon too.
      The wax will go over the spray paint but it won't absorb so it will sort of sit on the top. It will take a while to dry hard. You might be almost as well with shoe polish actually which dries hard quite quickly even on a non-absorbant surface. I would NOT recommend shoe polish for anything else, it is however not a bad idea for this small project
      You can't actually gild with over a waxed surface so you need to gild before waxing or you can use a gilders wax which is ever so quick to use and can be done over waxes. We sell a lovely one in our shop http://www.decoratescotland.com/carte-blanche-shop-ecwid.php#!/~/category/id=730117&inview=category5396052&offset=0&sort=normal

      Delete
    2. Thanks, Cait, for your quick reply! I have Baroque Art gilders paste that I purchased when I bought Annie Sloan chalk paint at the stockist. Is it the same as gilders wax? My mother is from Glasgow. I visited Scotland back in 1983. So, so beautiful there!

      Delete
  35. Sorry, I hadn't realised you were from USA....so silly to presume. It sounds similar and although I have never tried it I would think it would be fine.
    Yes beautiful, especially just now but oh so wet....
    :)

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  36. Hi Cait - been a fan of your forever - since one if the first Faux message boards. I have been using ASCP for awhile now with no problems until recently. I did a coffe table that is now a bit uneven and splotchy. I waited to buff and I didn't put on too much. I think it may be due to the unevenness of the oak that I was going over. So - I started the process mixing Old White and Aubusson and I dry brush over that with Old White and then a 3 layer stencil. Going over this with your wax and tint method may be difficult. Any other ideas? Someone suggested I add a little wax plus a steel wool pad in those uneven areas.

    Second question - re Annie's Gilding wax, my stocst here in US said that yiu have to have a coat of wax on first before using it. True!?

    Thanks - love your blog, keep posting!

    Linda
    http://www.thecolorfulbee.com

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    Replies
    1. Linda, you are so sweet. A "fan".....I shall float around on that all day! Was that Muralsplus or Faux Finishing for the Masses....there were a few.

      Hmmmm....first question - I am not sure. I would think that the wire wool will just abrade the painted surface. What about warming the wax up in a tin can and then painting it on...might work.

      Second question - Annie doesn't have a gilding wax pers se although many stockists hold stock of other people's. Stockists are taught that furniture must be sealed first with clear wax before any other wax goes on.....however there is no reason why you shouldn't wap a bit of gilt wax on without clear underneath.

      Hope that helps.....doesn't feel like it has really

      Delete
  37. Hi Caith

    Any idea of stockists of Annie Sloan paint and wax in the Glasgow area?

    Thanks
    :-)

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    Replies

    1. Iconic Home (Glasgow)

      Glasgow City Antiques
      121 - 127 Lancefield Street
      Glasgow G3 8HZ
      0141 248 7914

      You can find all the stockists on www.anniesloan.com

      Delete
  38. I have used dark wax before knowing I should have used clear wax first. It doesn't seem to want to dry. Any suggestions?

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    Replies
    1. You have too much wax on the surface I reckon.....if it feels sticky, it is usually too much wax. Remove with white spirit (aka mineral spirits if you live in USA or Canada)

      Delete
  39. Juat found your blog and it is so useful and it is wonderful that you share your knowledge. I have had problems using dark wax over graphite, I knew that you should always use clear wax first. however I read a blog that said to make the graphite darker just use the dark wax. what a disaster I've had, streaky, cloudy you name it, it looked terrible. I have now gone back and repainted and will just apply the clear wax as I quite like the slatey colour. Touch wood this will work.
    Once again love your blog keep up the good work

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Denise, I wish I had more time to write on the blog....soon I will.
      Streaky and cloudy makes me think that there is more going on...could it be that you have high humidity? I know it is still winter with you say maybe the wax is going onto a cool surface. You can pop the wax on a radiator to soften it and this helps it to spread and for it to work well into the surface. Damp and cold are the worst conditions for applying wax so if either of these apply try and change the environment. Good Luck!!!! I am sure you will get great results.

      Delete
  40. I have used ASCP for a dresser. Loved using it despite some hiccups on the way (bleed through issues). However I am now having real issues with the waxing. Have tried using a minuscule amount using the AS wax brush but found the results very patchy. I have then resorted to using a cloth and a bit more wax (better but still streaky/patchy).

    I think I have read about tinting the wax and using that to cover patchiness. Is that right and how would I go about it?

    Siobhan

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    Replies
    1. Hi Siobhan,
      If you use too little wax then it can look very patchy and this will never go because it is patchy because you are leaving dry areas. Minuscule amounts is not what that wax brush is all about, that brush is there for getting over big areas and working the soft wax well into the surface and then you remove the excess with a cloth....think of the wax like hand cream, work it well into the surface and remove the excess otherwise it will feel sticky.

      One thing that can create patchiness is uneven application of the paint particularly over a dark base. The patchiness may be because you have some areas that are a bit thin....they look fine till the wax goes on and then the base coat seems to grin through.

      You can tint the wax by mixing the paint in with it and that will often help.
      Give that a go and if it doesn't work get back to me and we can take it from there.

      BTW what was the piece of furniture made of and what were the issues with bleed?
      Cait

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  41. hi, planning to paint kitchen cupboards with ASCP and then use AS clear wax. but not sure how much wax do i need to buy. what is an approximate coverage that one wax pot provides - what size area will it cover?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. In usual circumstances 1 pot of wax will cover what you have painted with 2 litres of paint. If you are in USA you are working in quarts so it will go a little further again as a quart is less than a litre.
      For kitchens it is recommended that you apply 3 coats so in this instance I would think you would need maybe half again - so if you allow 2 waxes to 3 litres.....roughly.....should work out about right.

      Delete
    2. thank you for such a quick reply. this information should be there when buying wax online. will be our first attempt at AS, so fingers crossed.

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  42. Hi! I´m new to chalk paint and wax and I live in Mexico, so I don´t have access to any Annie Sloan products! I´m very excited about painting, I think this is my life. I´m finding it very very hard to find a suitable wax, what can I do? Is there any way I can make homemade wax? I have the opportunity of having the wax brought over occasionally, but mostly I will have to work with whatever I can make. Do you have any suggestions? I reeeeally will appreciate any help I can get! Thank you!

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    1. The wax Annie has is a mix of beeswax and carnauba wax and the solvent is mineral spirits - it is called paste wax. It is a very good one. You could look at brands like Minwax or Fiddes they may have something suitable but you would need to test each product to check
      There is a facebook group called Painted Ladies that is mainly women in USA who paint furniture - they may be more help
      https://www.facebook.com/groups/314928505209199/
      You don't have to use wax to patinate surfaces there are many other ways to go about it. It is however very hard for me to advise when I have no knowledge of whatm you actually have available to you.
      Firstly do you have products like Zinsser and Sherwin Williams? Other US brands perhaps.

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  43. Save my marriage please. My wife painted our china cabinet with white chalk paint, then clear wax, then antiqued with dark wax. I did not like the way it looked so I painted over the top of the wax with white chalk paint. All of this within 12 hours. Have I created a problem painting over un-cured wax? What should I do now?

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    1. So sorry to be so slow to reply....hope that divorce proceedings haven't already been started.
      It should be OK, if it is all Chalk Paint and not emulsion or any other type of paint then I think you can be fairly confident that it will be fine. Wax it next!!

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  44. Great blog, thank you. I have stripped a large table ( American oak) and done a little faux "wash" to grey down the yellow tones of the oak. I have then used clear and then dark wax on the top. I may have buffed too soon, as I buffed to remove streaks. I have a coat of clear, a very thin coat of dark and then a coat of clear coloured slightly with ascp. (all within 24 hours - got a bit carried away!) As it is an everyday use table I was thinking of one more clear coat of wax for protection. Does this sound okay, and if so how long should I let it sit before this and also after before using? Thanks again

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    1. 3-4 coats is fine and as long as it isn't sticky there isn't too much on there. I would leave it about a week but wax is a soft finish and so mats for mugs, hot plates etc are wise for quite some time. I can't really say how long it will remain soft, it's a bit of a how long is a piece of string. You need to judge yourself.

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