I get a lot of emails asking me questions about the application of Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™
And when I check my website statistics I see a
lot of times that people are searching for “Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™
how to use?” or “Annie Sloan paint tips” and lots of other similar questions and I thought....."but it is so easy, why would you even ask?". But I am thinking that maybe we need to do a bit more to help folks so I put all the questions I could see were asked over and over and I answered them here ...I hope I have covered most of them and if you have more....just shout and lets see if we can answer them in the comments.
These responses and answers are drawn from my own experience and are my opinions and I am always interested if people can add more from their own experience so if you have more info please feel free to comment
These responses and answers are drawn from my own experience and are my opinions and I am always interested if people can add more from their own experience so if you have more info please feel free to comment
- Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ prime before? - No. Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ will go over most surfaces without the need for a primer - varnished, waxed, prepainted, french polished surfaces are all fine...concrete, masonry, brick and most metals. Those surfaces that might need some extra help are few and far between....UPVC doesn't accept the paint easily, glass isn't great....but it will hold well for the likes of shop window display painting (not permanent).
- Do I need two coats of Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™? - sometimes yes and sometimes no. Very often one coat will suffice but it depends on what you are painting and the look you are trying to achieve. Experiment is the answer....buy a cheap length of skirting or go and scrounge some off-cuts of timber from a builder and just try it and see. It always says on hair dye products to test 24 hours before but how many of us do??? If you are brave enough to dye your hair without a test then probably painting furniture (which is not attached to your body) should be less daunting. Putting right a mistake with Chalk Paint™ is a lot easier than with hair dye so why not just see.
- Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ best book? - my personal view is that the best book for really understanding the paint finishes is Quick and Easy Paint Transformations - by Annie Sloan which has 50 step by step transformations of mainly old furniture but includes some other surfaces - floors, metal, new furniture, a cement pot. It is a really good basic course in a book.
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| Quick and Easy Paint Transformations |
- How to apply Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™? - you can apply it with brush, roller or spray although I think the best way to apply for most projects is brush. It is so easy and quick to use a brush and by the time you have go the roller and tray or set up your spray rig you an have had half of it painted. We use low pile rollers if and when we do use then (not often) and to spray we use HVLP and thin 10-20% depending on the consistency of the paint....it varies, being an artisan paint
- How much paint should you put on brush with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™? - this depends on the type of brush you are using and the length of the bristles, if I was using an Annie Sloan brush like this one I would put a little more than is shown in this image
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| I would say add a bit more than this to your brush |
- Do I need to sand Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™? - it depends on the look you want, you can use sandpaper to sand through to colours or timber beneath the topcoat and this can be done after waxing or you can just even out texture or rub through the dark antiqued paint to show some highlights. You need to play with the paint to see all that it can do
- How to even out Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ ? - OK well this pops up regularly and I am never sure what people mean...so I have 3 answers here. To even out colour, if, for instance you have applied the paint in a patchy way and not realised it till the waxing phase, add a little of the paint to the wax and blend that onto the surface; to even out brush marks if you are not happy with texture there are 2 approaches - first is to apply a thick coat first and then a very light sand when dry, then thin the second coat and apply with a quality brush and don't overwork, lay off lightly and deftly for a brush mark free finish; second is to put 2 coats of paint on and sand with fine sandpaper (220/240 grit). Dry sanding is not to be gone at like a dervish it is not a forgiving way to work (better for the less experienced to wax first and then sand if they are distressing etc) but if you want a "baby's butt smooth" - sorry about the technical terms there - finish then it is a great way to achieve. Just go canny as they say in Scotland
- Can I use Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ on floor tiles/can you paint tile with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™/Can you use Annie Sloan Soft Wax - This has to be a matter of common sense. You can paint concrete floors and you can paint slate and marble so the paint will stick to some surfaces but how hard wearing it will be on floor tiles I do not know, it all depends on how good the adhesion has been and on the top coating. If you apply 3 coats of hard-wearing polyacrylic floor varnish then it should be OK providing you have got the adhesion but if it is a high traffic area or if you have a lot of friends with high healed shoes then it will just be as hard wearing as any normal floor paint. If the varnish is broken right through to the paint beneath and then washed heavily the paint will lift....so maintain the varnish and keep it sealed. On tiles again I would use a good dollop of common sense. If the tiles are going to come into a lot of wear then...maybe not the best product but if it is an area that wipe sensibly and not have to scrub at then why not give it a try. Superslick tiles may need a primer or some heavy etching, tiles in the shower are not suitable to be painted at all. Wax is fine for wall tiles (3 coats for high traffic areas like kitchens. Wax is not right for floors.
- Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ on brick/ Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ on brick on masonry?- yes it is fine for both if the surface is sound
- How long should Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ dry before waxing? - this depends on atmospheric conditions and also on how thickly applied it is. It can be as little as 20 minutes or as long as 2 or 3 hours. Some people say to leave it overnight and I am not sure why as there is no technical reason why it should be left that long. The paint does calcify over time, so it will get harder but if you are waxing I can't see a reason to leave it any more than ...until it is dry.
I have a part 2 to do and this will deal with waxing questions but meantime I will leave you with this really delightful tutorial from Annie which will help the beginner get to grips with what the paint can do
Posts
Hi, I have used Annie Sloan paint today on a chair. The chair needed a second coat & on drying the paint has now cracked ?
ReplyDeleteYou have out the paint on too thickly I would reckon. Did you force dry it? It is a technique that we teach.....how to make the paint crack and if you want it to happen it can be a very cool look in odd areas here and there. You should be able to sand it out and then repaint but in the paint a little
ReplyDeleteSorry that should read *thin the paint*
ReplyDeleteHi, thanks for replying a great help.How much do you thin paint by , also any tips on how to not see brush strokes thanks.
DeleteWell the easiest way to get a smooth finish is to put the first coat on probably full strength and if it isn't flowing nicely thin just a tad with water or have a wee pot of water handy just to dampen the brush with.
ReplyDeleteThen if you see brush strokes take some 240 sand paper and give it a wee sand. Then with the top coat thin it about 10% with water, more if you want. Then wax. If you still see brush strokes you don't like then you can sand after waxing and then do a final wax. Should feel like a babes botty after that!!
What colors did you use to create the green color in the picture?
ReplyDeleteHi Kathleen, that is actually one of Annie's pieces and is Graphite clear wax and then with dark wax. It probably looks lighter in the picture than it probably would in actuality, with the photographers lighting and against the white wall as well, that tends to makes it a little paler.It is one of my favourite combinations.
DeleteHi Cait, I just used AS's wax for the first time and you can see my strokes and a little cloudyness. Yes I used thin coats and wiped off all excess. I also worked in small areas at a time. Should I lightly sand these areas and wax again?
ReplyDeleteThanks,
Robin
Hi Robin,
DeleteYou may find that it settles however the sanding may eliminate the brushmarks you have. Did you do 2 coats of Annie Sloan Chalk Paint first or only one? Often if you only do one coat, the basecoat grins through when it comes to the waxing stage, even though it looks like a good coverage when it is unwaxed. Just a thought and I thought I would mention it.
If the sanding lightly and re-waxing doesn't work then try this wee technique - take a plate or palette of some sort and put a blob of wax on it and make a wee well in the middle (like cooking) add in a little of your paint and then mix and apply. It sounds impossible but it works and often helps to even out patchy looking paint.
Hi
ReplyDeleteThanks for the very helpful post. I have a draw leaf oak table which has a really horrible orange varnish finish on top. Also both centre leaves have been replaced with ply rather than oak. I would like to paint it with the Annie Sloan paints but am not sure whether the paint would withstand pulling the leaves out on either side without leaving trackmarks. I was wondering whether you have tackled a project like this and how you fared.
Thank you
So sorry to be so slow to respond. I was teaching last week and my brain I think went to mush...I hope I am not too late to be of help.
DeleteFirst of all...yes, most draw leaf tables are a bit of a nightmare to paint because the scrape. To test if the scrap at the moment here is what to do. take out the leaves that slide and cover them with a layer of chalk, normal chalk board chalk, where you think the scraping might happen then slide the leaves back in and out again. If the chalk has been scraped then there is no room for paint. That is not to say you can't sand it all down and make clearance but then that is quite a travail and sort of defeats the purpose of Chalk Paint™.
If this had been oak on all the leaves I would have said that my approach would have been to get a palm sander and remove the varnish and then I would have washed the surface with Old White or Paris Grey and then wiped it back leaving paint in the flecks of the wood and then I would have oiled it if it was a table that was likely to be used a lot, with finishing oil. This is a very durable tabletop finish...however with the ply centre sections this rather changes things.
OK....I think what I would do if it was me is check if it scraped then I would devise a finish that didn't matter if it scraped. So maybe distressed stripes with a woody colour (Arles maybe) in there and then if it scraped it wouldn't matter as it would still look good. The other way would be to paint the centre section solid colour with a design, and do the design in reverse on the orange oak. So maybe paint the centre leaves in a neutral like Country Grey and then print Barcelona Orange spots all over (try using the end of a foam roller to print with) and then on the oak, print lots of Country Grey spots. I would wax these finishes.
These are great tips! - I am starting my first AS project this weekend and this was a great read :) - Thank You !
ReplyDeleteDelighted they are useful
DeleteHi!
ReplyDeleteI am painting a vile wooden fireplace surround in Old White. I've dont one coat. If I do another coat, will I need to sand it if I don't want it distressed? Or do I just wax it?
I just worry that it will be distressed - what is the purpose of sanding if not to distress?
And when I wax, is it just dipped a little on a lint free rag and smoothing/rubbing it on?
Annie Sloan website haven't got back to me and aren't answering the phone. Am desperate!
Thanks x
Hi Gem, sanding does 2 things, it can either distress or it can just smooth the paint. So if you are happy to have a bit of texture (which I quite like on a lot of projects) then paint away, wax and you are done. If you want a smooth solid finish then here's a good ways to approach it - a)apply the first coat full strength, then lightly sand the surface with something like 180 grit sandpaper and take away the brush marks (this will be a bit dusty so be prepared). Dust off the surface and if there are edges showing then touch them up - don't over work the surface as that will make it brushy again. Then apply the second coat thinned about 10% - maybe more if you find it dragging a bit. Leave it to dry and then wax. Wax can be applied with a cloth or a brush ...there is more info on wax here http://decoratescotland.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/benefits-of-annie-sloan-soft-wax.html?utm_source=BP_recent. There was definitely a problem with the phones at head office today and yesterday
ReplyDeleteOh.....and if you get stuck, come back and shout or call the studio we are always happy to help
DeleteAhh, how lovely Cait, thanks for your speedy reply!
ReplyDeleteIt's a little too late to take up your brill advice unfortunately, as I've already done the first coat and didn't do full strength as worried about making it too thick.
Going to attempt a second coat tomorrow. If I ended up doing a total or 2 or 3 coats that aren't full strength, do you think I could get away without sanding?
Annie Sloan seems to paint, wax, sand and wax but that's all for distressed work. My friend paints, sands and then waxes but she also loves the distressed look. I do too, but not for the fireplace.
Really lovely of you to offer your help, thanks so much!
Gem xx
Hi
ReplyDeleteI'd like to paint my upvc front door with AS premier red paint - is this a hopeless task?
Many thanks
I personally wouldn't do so. I would buy a UPVC primer like this one http://www.international-paints.co.uk/products/info/upvc_primer.jsp and then apply whichever exterior paint you decide you would like to use. You could try using Primer Red Chalk Paint™ but I think I would probably use a conventional exterior eggshell or gloss if it was me.
DeleteHelp. I just painted a table with AS graphite with the AS brush in a medium size. I applied two coats because I didn't see good coverage. Then I used the same brush to apply the wax. The problem now is that I have a blotchy finish to say the least. It doesn't seem to have the same coverage all over, and is blotchy in color. What can I do. Thank you in advance.
ReplyDeleteOK...a couple of questions: what was the substrate? was it raw wood, painted or varnished surface or???? and I know this sounds like a daft question but did you stir the paint? and finally was the brush wet when you applied the wax?
DeleteThe wood was a kitchen table that had a hard lacquer on the top. Yes I did stir the paint, actually turned it upside down and shook per the instructions. The brush was dry when I used it. I have decided that I'm going to sand the surface and start again. This time, I think I should thin the paint a little. I did notice that there were some spots with too much paint with brush strokes too. Also, it's great hearing a response back. Thank so you so much. I await further instructions...
ReplyDeleteHiya! What a lovely looking personal website you run! Did you build your blog on your own?
ReplyDeleteThank you, I am delighted you like it. I had the help of a really wonderful website designer called Evie Milo from Eskymo http://www.eskymo.co.uk/ for both the website and the blog
DeleteHi there
Deletelovely reading your advice and expertise!
i'm toying with the diea of using annie sloan on our skirting,architrave and interior doors-have you any experience of this and if so how susccessful was it?many thanks
Great advice you give here. I m from Romania and I asked a friend in the US to buy it for me, got the paint and after I painted a coffee table, a mirror, a phone case and two small chairs for my daughters , I painted the stair risers.... They were not covered with wood, we only covered the stairs with dark wood, so the risers were white, the surface being wall. My question is: are they going to last? They look great, I appled two coats, they are very even, and the paint is for walls too, right?? Now I apply clear wax just like on furniture? Will my work last? It looks great and I only wish it lasts too... What do you think??
ReplyDeleteThank you,
Ozana
Hi Ozana, I think it should be fine. If it was on a floor I would suggest floor varnish rather than wax but on the risers it should be fine to wax
DeleteThank you so much for your answer!!
ReplyDeleteKisses!
Ozana
Hi - I am wondering what color was used on the small table above.. Duck Egg Blue with dark wax?? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteHi Marrianne, I think I already said above.... that is actually one of Annie's pieces and is Graphite clear wax and then with dark wax. It probably looks lighter in the picture than it probably would in actuality, with the photographers lighting and against the white wall as well, that tends to makes it a little paler.It is one of my favourite combinations.
DeleteTry Aubusson and dark wax.... That would give that colour without thee photography lighting
ReplyDeleteHi, Cait! I wanted to use the duck egg color on a chandelier, but thought that spraying it would be easier since there are so many tiny parts. You mentioned on this post it would be quicker to brush on when doing furniture. Would you agree to that on a chandelier too? Have you ever sprayed it on? If so, does it cover the same as when brushing it on? My debate is do I use Annie Sloan paint to spray it on and not have to use a primer or do I choose an acrylic brand of paint to spray, but have to prime first... I am unsure... Any advice would be most helpful. Thanks so much!
ReplyDeleteBlogger is working very strangely....not sure my comment has worked as a reply, more just like a comment. Hoping this will and so will flag up that I have replied below
DeleteI think it would depend what sort of look I was after. I love Duck Egg over anything glitzy gold or brassy to tone it down but I like chinks of the gold coming through....sort of makes it look like an old French piece. I think it might also depend on how big a chandelier it was. We have spray Chalk Paint, you need to thin it at least 10% ....probably more like 20% and it creates a HUGE amount of chalk dust so you either need to have a booth or cate a booth or do it outside somewhere.
ReplyDeleteFor me I think by the time I have set up the rig, set up the booth and cleaned out the machine....I probably could've just had it painted, so it would need to be a mighty big chandelier for me to think the juice was worth the squeeze.
As to which paint....really depends what look you are after....I like what Chalk Paint does ....if this is an item for yourself,..actually even for a client you needn't wax it, not like lots of hands will be hitting it so that chalky loveliness is what I would want on a chandelier. I can't see the point of using an acrylic paint unless you want solid, acrylic look. Just a matter of what you like I suppose
Hi, can I spray a polycrylic on Annie Sloan paint to give it a glossy appearance ?
ReplyDeleteWe have done, some sit on the top ...I would test first and apply a thin the first coat to encourage absorption
DeleteHow do I apply to a stucco interior wall painted finish? Do I thin out with water, or apply full stength. Do I roll or brush? I want Old White then want to wax on a graphite color. Give it an old stucco look, natural.
ReplyDeleteThanks,
Indivea
Hi Shelley, I am not sure what you mean by a stucco interior wall.....this may be a cultural thing I am going to guess you are from USA. If you can send me a picture of what you want to achieve I can maybe help. cait@decoratescotland.com
DeleteHi, I am purchasing a home with an open concept built in 2009. It is in a subdivision and is a tract home. All of the homes are like cookie cutter, the same.
ReplyDelete1) I have oak kitchen cabinets, black appliances, and gray Corian countertops. I want to paint and distress the cabinets in some shade of white. Do you think that the black appliances will blend?
2) The floors are a neutral tile and the grout is very similar in color. Can I paint the tiles or grout or just leave it the way it is?
3)I want this home to feel rustic french, there are no architectural details other than a fireplace with marble in front and side. I hate the marble..Can I paint it with ASCP ? Thanks so much for your help...
1. Yes
Delete2. You can rake out the grout and regrout or paint but I am not sure how long painted grout would last but you could try that first. I have never painted floor tiles with Chalk Paint why not take a tile and try it.
3.marble paints really well with Chalk Paint
Hi, I am interested in using a sprayer to apply my ASCP. I was wondering if you have some tips. The problem I ran into was the sprayer clogging. I have quite a few pieces to do and they have to be done rather quickly. I would appreciate any advice including what kind of sprayer would be best and approximately how much water can be used to thin it before it's too much.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much, have a great day.
Shirley
It is Gibson who does our spraying with an HVLP sprayer and he recommends diluting it to the consistency of single cream and as each colour varies in consistency it is better to just to aim for a consistent thickness.
DeleteWipe your nozzle every few passes with a damp cloth. Keep an old toothbrush to hand and a jar of water to just do a thorough clean at the end of each piece of furniture.
Hope that helps
Hi, I've painted an old table with annie Sloan paint but there appears to be grease marks and a cup mark coming through the paint. Is there anything I can do to fix this? Thank you
ReplyDeleteThe first thing is that although you don't need to worry about sanding and stripping with Chalk Paint, the cleaning has to be done, so degreasing is an absolute must before you start painting as you have found to your cost sadly.
DeleteA remedial step to block this coming through is to paint these over with shellac and then repaint, that should block the grease and stains.
Hi! I have my first piece and am looking to buy AS to do it. It is a reproduction, mini bureau with 3 drawers. It is currently a dark stained wood with wax on top I believe (but may just be the varnish - not sure). Do I need to completely sand the entire piece down to wood first?
ReplyDeleteHi Emily, no you don't need to sand it at all. Chalk Paint will go over both wax and varnish without sanding unless it is superslick varnish in which case I would give it a light scuff. The surface needs to clean and when you wash it down, rub the surface firmly with a white cloth and detergent and check to see if there is a stain that will bleed, rub it firmly and then check the cloth for stain bleed. If you suspect wax it may be a coloured wax but be aware that if a stain bleeds it may bleed through the first coat so be prepared with a shellac to stain block after first coat and then the second coat should cover perfectly after that.
DeleteHi Cait! Thanks so much for this. Sorry complete novice here... What's shellac?! Thanks x
ReplyDeleteGoogle Liberon and you will find "shellac" and "pale knotting", both are good and you should be able to buy them locally. It is the same stuff they use for shellac nails and to make french polish, also a great stain block
DeleteHi Cait, Wondering if you can give me some advice....? I've painted a large wardrobe with Annie Sloan chalk paint - I did two coats of the French Linen and it looked fab with a nice smooth finish. However, I then applied the wax and now it looks blotchy !! Have you got any advice for how I can achieve a smooth waxed finish without the blotchiness ? Thanks, Anna
ReplyDeleteHi Anna
DeleteThe blotches would go away over time, but most people don't want to wait. Easiest way to get a lovely finish is bizarrely to mix paint and wax together and bled away the blotches.
I usually put the wax on a plate and make a wee well and pour some paint in....like when you are cooking and then make a sort of painty wax paste...easy as pie!!
Hi Cait,
ReplyDeleteIm about to approach my first upcycle project, our dining room table with AS Pure White and some soft wax, any tips before I start would be greatly appreciated x
so sorry to be slow to post your comment and respond, I was away up North for a few days and just getting back in the swing.
DeleteNo huge tips related to the Pure White except keep your tools clean. Don't wear wool while waxing ....wrong time of year for it, but wool fibres fly about and get caught in the wax.
Keep us posted as to how it goes!!
Help please! We are going to paint our front door with Provence but I just read somewhere you cannot use the wax for outdoor pieces?? Obviously we can use the waxes on the inside of the door but what can we do about the front or outside portion of the door?? Please help! Thank you!
ReplyDeleteThe answer is that you just leave it. You need the door to be very dry if there is any bare timber it needs to not be holding any moisture and then you need a few days of hopefully totally dry weather weather to follow. Ideally 3 coats will do it. It will weather naturally in a French sort of a way.
ReplyDeletehi I have painted my wooden kitchen units in Annie's chalk paint and although I love the colour and texture, the bottom pieces of the units are discoloured from wear and tear. but I am unsure as to how to clean this, I have tried rubbing with wax but it does not seem to be helping. my question is how do I take these grubby marks off?
ReplyDeleteUse a cleaner - something gentle like dish washing liquid on a cloth. This may remove some of the wax but just rewax. This is what Annie's site says about using it for kitchens:
Delete"You can use Annie Sloan's unique decorative paint, Chalk Paint®, on kitchen cabinets using at least 2 coats of paint and then give it two or three coats of Annie Sloan Soft Wax to seal it. Soft Wax is water repellent and strong and makes a good connection to the paint. Chalk Paint® is meant to give character and interest rather than a perfectly smooth 'plastic' finish of some paints. Refresh every now and again with some more Soft Wax when its needed. Wipe over with a damp cloth to clean. Using a strong cleaner like Mr Muscle may be necessary for stuborn marks but it will remove some wax and the area will need rewaxing."
Hope that helps
Cait
Hi Im debating on painting my kitchen wall tiles with annie sloans paint, have you tried this or is it a bad idea
ReplyDeleteI haven't tried it personally but I have seen some good results. Cleaning is important - I have to say that personally I would probably prime if they are shiny shiny tiles with Zinsser 123 available in UK, EU and USA. Then it is down to how well it is sealed. I would seal with a varnish if it was me.If waxing 3 coats of wax to stop grease etc. If you are a big olive oil splasher like me then I would go varnsih for sure.
DeleteI have to say that if you are just after painting a flat colour on tiles I can't see any advantage to using Chalk Paint in this situation. With Chalk Paint you have 2 coats paint and then the primer of you want that and then however many coats of whatever you seal it with. If it was just plain paint - primer and 2 acrylic eggshells and you'd be done
Gosh, once again Blogger runs away with my response.....I wrote a lovely reply to this yesterday. Here goes again.
DeleteI have never done this myself but I have seen some good results.
If I was to use Chalk Paint I would clean very thoroughly, I would sand the surface - because it is a difficult surface to bond to and if the tiles were very shiny I would prime with Zinsser 123 (available in UK, EU and USA). Then I would give them 3 coats of wax or 2 coats of a good quality polyacrylic that has a resistance to oils. If you are in UK then we have a very strong one that isn't currently listed on the website but can be bought by phoning 01738587600 and asking for the Universal Lacquer.
If you are just looking for a plain colour over your tiles I personally would probably just use a good quality eggshell paint. I would clean and use the Zinsser 123 and then I would apply a quality eggshell using a low pile mini roller. This would be 3 coats instead of potentially primer, 2 coats and 3 waxes
Hi Cait!
ReplyDeleteI've painted a coffee table and kitchen table with AS Coco and then used the dark wax (heavily) over them to achieve a "barnwood" type look. I used the fine sandpaper after the wax dried to try an buff it to a shine, but both tables are still dull and a little gummy. The kitchen table has been painted and waxed now for 6 months, wax is wearing off at the ends of the table where our arms come in constant contact. Is the texture just characteristic of the wax or have I missed a step somewhere?
Thank you and I've really enjoyed reading your posts!
OK....well if you apply the wax very heavily and don't remove the excess then the top dries a little but underneath will stay soft. The wax should never be dull and gummy and to be honest that is a sign that you have put on too much.
DeleteIf you want a very dark look, you first seal with clear wax. You ALWAYS seal with clear first, and then apply the dark. If initially it isn't dark enough, allow it to dry and then come back in with a second layer.
Buffing should be done with a cloth not sandpaper, sandpaper will just remove the top layer of wax. You wait a few hours (at least 4) and then buff with something lint free. An old bit of terry towelling or sheeting will do. We sell buffing cloth from the studio, although it's not on the site at the moment for £1 per metre - 01738587600
Hi, painted my kitchen cupboards yesterday (two coats)and left them to dry overnight as it is humid. However, when I added my first coat of wax, the paint seemed to come off. What can I do to repair this?
ReplyDeleteThis usually indicates that you have 1 of 3 possible problems going on. If the paint is literally coming off - and I mean you can see it on the cloth coming away from the surface, then silicon is most likely your issue. If you have used a silicon cleaner or spray this can be an issue and usually these products suggest that they have "fingerprint resistance" or similar.
DeleteSecond possibility - again if it is literally coming off and you can see it on the cloth.....and you used Sugar Soap to clean your cupboards and didn't rinse, this can also set up a resistance to adhesion for Chalk Paint.
Finally and this is the most common - you may have thought you got very even coverage but in fact you didn't. When you apply the wax it shows up the "skinny" areas and you see the substrate cupboard door grinning through.
Solutions for numbers 1 and 2 - sorry, remove and start again. The silicon needs to be removed and I normally first wipe with white spirit (aka mineral spirits in USA) and then use a wash of methylated spirits (aka denatured alcohol) thinned 1:1 with water as my cleaning agent.
Solution for number 3 is to put another coat on. Even if you have waxed you can coat the surface but fresh wax that isn't cured....well that's asking a bit much of the paint, so I would sand off the wax or wipe it down with white spirit to remove it and then recoat. In hot weather I would definitely be thinning it a bit to allow a good flow but beware of over-thinning as this may leave it patchy.
Is there a way to remove just one layer of chalk paint and leave the original finish
ReplyDeleteI am so sorry.....yet again blogger has disappeared a post from me. I replied to this post ages ago.
DeleteRemove the wax with sandpaper if there is any on the surface and then hot water and a scrubby pad.
Cait,
DeleteThere is no wax, just a layer of chalk paint. Under the paint, is the original wood finish. Is there any way to bring back the wood finish?
Just wash it off, if it isn't sealed it should wash away from a finished timber surface relatively easily. If the wood was raw as opposed to varnished or sealed then it will have absorbed the paint and colour and water would encourage the grain to raise, so I would sand it off (dusty process so wear a mask) but if the timber had a lacquer/varnish/French polish or similar just wash it away
DeleteHi Cait, I read somewhere that ASCP can be used on fabrics - have you tried this? I was thinking of refreshing a pair of table lamps (bases and shades). The shades are the type with fabric that is adhered to a plastic form. Could I still use the wax, or is it inadvisable on surfaces that get warm? Thank you!
ReplyDeleteYes it can be used on fabric, I haven't done it but lots of my customers have.
DeleteI am sure the shades will be fine painted but remember that when painted the shade will become much more opaque so no light will shine through the shade, just up and down.
I wouldn't use wax in this instance, the heat will soften the wax and then it becomes a dust magnet
Hi, I have used annie sloan paint before with success, so am very diappointed to find when painting my coffee table it is flaking as I am pinting it. I have strip all the paint off once, sanded the table (just in case!) and once again it had flaked? Any advice would be greatly received! Jackie
ReplyDeleteHi Jackie,
DeleteI have heard this twice in the last week.I am thinking this is a manufacturing problem - a bad batch perhaps. It wasn't Paris Grey was it? I would take it back to your stockist and have them check the batch with Oxford. It should definitely NOT be doing that.
Sorry not to be more helpful than that. You have done everything correctly.
Hi Cait
ReplyDeleteWhat a wonderful source of knowledge you are. I am a complete novice when it comes to any sort of decorating, but I want to do my daughter's pine bed (and possibly some of her pine furniture) with ASCP. A friend suggests applying two coats, with the 2nd coat slightly diluted. She then suggests waxing, sanding to distress and re-waxing over the distressed bits. Why can't you sand to distress before you apply the wax? Also, if you distress and it looks awful (which my husband suspects it will; I'm not so sure, but given my lack of ability in this direction he may have a point), can you just re-paint and wax over those bits, or would you have to sand down to the wood again in those areas? Thanks in advance, Liz.
Your friend has the technique exactly right Liz. If you sand before waxing that is fine but it is a/. very dusty and b/. very uncontrolled, chances are you will take off far more than you think you have and it will look quite different when you wax as to what you thought it would. As a beginner I would stick to the process as your friend described
DeleteIf you don't like it afterwards, touching up can be done but the touch ups will probably be visible so a repaint is probably advisable if you want a top finish
oh and just to add....by a repaint I don't mean sanding right back, just pop another coat over the surface and wax again
DeleteThat;s so helpful, Cait, thank you. As soon as we have chosen the paint and paper for the walls of our daughter's room, I shall be coming to you to order the Annie Sloan paint and wax - and maybe varnish (would that be sensible for the top of a dressing table?). By the way, do you do the colour card? I was going to get a few sample pots, but they are quite pricey.
ReplyDeleteHi Liz, Wax should be fine if you use mats for cups and glasses while the wax hardens off.
DeleteSo kind of you to want to buy from us, but we are no longer going to be stocking the paint, we are selling off the last of our stock this week.
If you check www.anniesloan.com a list of stockists are on there to find your local one.
I don't I'm afraid have any colour cards left but other stockist will.
Hi Cait,
ReplyDeleteI just painted an "Office Depot" cheapo tall bookshelf with Graphite ASCP and do not plan on waxing it. I will be using the shelf for my baskets and bins in my craft room and I plan on writing all over it with chalk. How long do I need to wait before placing the items back on the shelves. I know that if it was latex paint, I'd need to wait quite some time but I know that ASCP is special. I just don't want the items pulling the paint off but I'm also very impatient! Thanks and your blog is awesome.
The paint isn't like latex, it won't pull ........and without wax, do beware it will mark and absorb grease readily. It will however harden over a 5 day period kept in a dry atmosphere
DeleteHi Cait.
ReplyDeleteIs it possible to paint a marble fireplace in AS paint? And if so how many coats would it need and would I need to treat it with anything afterwards? Thanks!
Chalk Paint works really well on marble, make sure it is clean and soot free, 2 coats, I would think, then wax or varnish depending on how you want to use the fireplace. If the fireplace is used regularly I would probably varnish rather than wax.
Deletehello iv just bought some chalk paint to do my dinning room table, my question is can i use clear varnish over the top. i have three children and want it hard wearing , thankyou
ReplyDeleteHi, you can....not all varnishes work. If you are in UK I would suggest that Blackfriars Duratough is a great option but grease will still mark this if you leave say a crisp or a chocolate chip cookiejust sitting on the table. We stock a really GREAT varnish which is resistant to a whole heap of stuff, grease, oil, the works. It isn't on the website yet to buy but you can call me on Monday (01738 587600) if you are interested and we can ship it to you.
DeleteIf you are in USA I hear great things about the "Beautiful" range from the Harrel Art Group
So encouraging to see the support you give to this product, nice Blog well presented and servised.
ReplyDeleteThanks Brian we do our best :)
DeleteHello, great feedback site. Ive bought some ASCP in old white and graphite. We plan to buy many others if I can figure this out. We plan to spray nearly everything we do. We are looking to complete in volume.
ReplyDeleteMy inquiry is do you have any tips for a newbie that will be spraying? Tip size etc. Do i need to thin?
I also have a part 2. We have not attempted waxing yet. We have some piece that will be a real pain to wax. Two tier tables with many spindles. Our thoughts are to just spray water based poly over these pieces instead of trying to wax area not subject to heavy traffic.
Thank you in advance. Keep up the great work.
Hi Michael, I am so sorry to be so slow to respond, very busy just now with our contracts.
DeleteSpraying ASCP is certainly possible and we would recommend using an HVLP sprayer diluting 10+% up to as much as 25/30%- you want the consistency of single cream. The colours vary dramatically in consistency so if you were doing production work I would work with the same batches each time and monitor the dilution.
The tip we use is a #4 in a Fuji gun http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworking-workshop-equipment-spraying-hvlp-guns-systems-xpc-spray-gun-fuji+96004 I wish we had a gravity feed gun and actually we are looking at a new one just now.
You will find 2 things....your nozzle will clog constantly and so you must wipe it regularly - just a habit you need to get into, otherwise you will get splotchy/orange peely work. The chalk oxidises as you work and you NEED to keep this boothed otherwise you will have a fine mist of chalk on EVERYTHING for miles around.
Waxing a spindle will probably be as easy as spraying and you can't wax one part and spray another part of a piece of furniture. Things like spindles I would do a few thin coats if I had to spray....but I would probably just wipe on the poly personally or brush it.
You can use a water based poly but I would use it for high traffic areas not the other way round. You will need to really test the poly you decide to use and do not use a cheap one as many do not react well or adhere oddly, you can get bubbling, delamination, yellowing, all sorts. If you can tell me where you live I can advise further - USA or GB I have suitable topcooats that you can spray.
I have to say that I think spraying with ASCP defeats the purpose. It is a paint designed to give character and style to furniture, spraying you may as well just use standard eggshell - it's still 3 coats just the first is a primer.
I painted an old oak cabinet and it took about 6 coats of red Annie Sloan Chalk paint to cover... I finally got great coverage and then I attempted to wax a few days later. The wax went on splotchy, so I figured I didn't use enough wax because I was paranoid about using too much, so within 30 minutes of my splotchy wax coat I re-waxed it and got it looking even, vibrant, and there was NO cloudyness/milkyness/wax buildup. I let it dry for 24 hours and went to 'buff' it because I wanted a little more shine. I used a ultra soft microfiber cloth and as I lightly rubbed/buffed the areas became cloudy and milky- areas I hadn't buffed yet still looked awesome. I then tried using an old t-shirt and the same thing happened, where ever I buffed I just got a gross milky look. I'm regretting trying to buff it but I was trying to get more of a sheen! Do I have to lightly sand off the wax and re-wax? Did I buff too soon before the wax was dry (it felt dry though!)? Too much or too little?
ReplyDeleteOh Lord this sounds like a miserable experience......and it shouldn't be.
DeleteFirst of all it shouldn't take 6 coats to cover!!!! I am appalled. I would have taken that back. It sounds like you might be from the USA so it is difficult for me to comment as the paint you buys is made in USA whereas the paint we buy here in UK is made here. I would definitely talk to your retailer.
There are often problems with reds in all ranges and we normally advise that people start with a dark grey and then work the red over that as it will help the red to "pop". However I would not expect Chalk Paint to need that dark base and normally have got coverage with 2 coats with ease.
The wax problem sounds like it is "blooming" this is a term for what happens when moisture gets trapped in the surface of the wax. If you are suffering from exceptional humidity just now then that would be your answer. If there were 6 coats and you perhaps didn't leave these long enough to dry then there could be moisture trapped in the paint but equally, hot and humid are just the WRONG conditions for a soft paste wax like this before it is cured. Not your fault at all....you did absolutely everything right.....I would normally have not even left it 24 hours.
If I am right about the humidity ....hmmm not sure what to suggest about the next stage. I would perhaps try and drive the moisture out by using a soft lint free cloth soaked with white sprit (aka mineral spirits) and just wipe that over the surface and see what happens. This will remove some of the wax. If that works then I would leave it to harden off and then buff at a later date.
If that doesn't work...then yes, maybe a sand off and a rewax.
Let me know if this all sounds feasible
Just to add, given the person below also had this problem, r.e coverage with red it would be good if you could take the batch number and report your experience to the head office - Annie Sloan Unfolded, no manufacture wants to hear that their paint isn't performing but better to hear and make adjustments than lose customers
DeleteHi. I live in USA. I'm having the same problem with coverage. Trying my first attempt on a primitive sewing stand. I decided to leave the original white on and paint with Primer Red. Two coats and white paint is still showing through. I'm disappointed because everything I have read on this has rave reviews on how easy to paint and what good coverage it gives and believe me, I have spent several hours doing research into how-to and watched so many videos. I wanted to paint my pine primitive pie safe but thought it best to start with a smaller, not so important piece first. Guess I should paint again since the layers of paint is getting so dark. Do you have any advise for me?
ReplyDeleteWell I think you should definitely take note of the batch number and give either your retailer or head office at Annie Sloan Unfolded and see if there has been a problem with some batches.
DeleteIf there is a batch problem I would get an exchange. If this is just how the paint is.....and reds are notoriously tricky to get coverage with, then maybe test one area and see if just one coat will cover and if not, get something like Primer Red to beef up the coverage.
Hi Cait, I love Annie Sloan colours and the finish and would like to use it on my kitchen walls. Everyone talks of doing their kitchen cupboards with it but I can't find any info about using on kitchen walls. When I have previously painted kitchens I have reached for specific kitchen paint without a second thought, will AS be tough enough for kitchen walls?
ReplyDeleteMy immediate response is no. It is not durable on its own at all. You have to wax it or varnish it. If you wax it you will not be able to put wallpaper or paint over the top of the wax without removing the wax in the future.
DeleteThere are topcoats that could be applied, where are you?? I can advise about them if you are in USA or in UK; Australia, NZ and SA I am not so good on.
Annie has got wall paint coming out but it could be some time.....
Thanks for your quick response! I am in the UK
DeleteOh good that is easy.
DeleteThere is a brilliant very matt really durable topcoat called "Dulux Special Effects Clearcoat Matt" and it is only available as a special order from your local Dulux Decorator Centre (they don't just do trade they will deal with the public too), it is not available at any Dulux DIY centres nor is it available off the shelf. Even some trade centres don't know it exists but it does
It comes in 5 litres only and is about £60 ish at my last look. It is rollerable and goes on milking drying almost clear ...when I say almost the almost will really only be visible if it went over graphite as a VERY slight soft cast.
i am wanting to chalk paint my front door outside. i want to use both the waxes. Since it is outdoors can i put a coat of Polycrylic protective finish over the dark wax for more protection?
ReplyDeleteSorry, I'm about to rain on your parade a little here as I think you have chosen the wrong product to achieve what you want to do.
DeleteFirst of all I would not choose Chalk Paint for a front door - I know some that have done and are happy with the patina it achieves but be aware it will patinate. The surface is not meant to be waxed for outdoors so it will collect fingermarks and it will wear off fairly readily.
Next you cannot use the waxes outside - wax is an interior product only. It will bloom (go a milky white) if allowed to get wet and then cold, it will soften in heat, ultimately it will crack off the surface.
Finally under no circumstances can you apply a polyacrylic over wax.
If you are determined to use ASCP on your front door and want to have the dark wax look, get back to me and I will give you a process to achieve it only I do need to know where you are (USA or UK or wherever) so I can recommend the correct products for your area.
Hi, great web page!
ReplyDeleteI've read all the Q&As yet I still have another few for you, if you would be so kind to answer them for me please.
I've painted a few pieces of furniture for the bedroom in a B&Q paint with primer, they look great. I then decided to do some living room furniture. Looking on line for colour inspiration I kept hearing about this marvellous Annie Sloan paint. I decided to play it safe and opted for old white. I have a coffee table in mahogany (my nan had one in the.80s it has a leather look top with glass on queen Anne legs) I'm not sure of its age and I think it had a lacquer coating (not sure though, it was worn). I also have a yellowish oak small lamp and a larger matching side table, these were shop bought when I first move in about 10years ago from focus, it's real wood and in good condition just an awful shade. Anyway I cleaned with warm water and mild soap first, then I sanded (even though you don't have to) then I wiped down again (when doing the coffee table it was transferring a reddish colour, I think you call it leaking wood?) I then waited until it dried before applying the first layer. I applied the second a few hours later and I'm yet to wax with AS. I love the colour of the coffee table, it's a creamy old white as I imagined the colour should be. But the small lamp table looks bright white!!
1) If I wax the coffee table will it keep the colour as it is now, or will it keep leaking? Meaning I need to shellac it, as you've advised above to others.
2) If the coffee table is ok to use after waxing with out starting again with shellac, how do I get the other furniture to match? Could I use a darker wax after the first clear wax to try to match it? Or should I remove the AS paint, remove any existing yellowish oak varnish and varnish again with a mahogany colour, or paint brown before repainting with AS? (Alot of messing about but it would be great if I could achieve the creamy old white look on everything). Or is this pointless if the coffee table wood is leaking as it is due to the type of varnish/wax used back in the day? (Or something??)
3) Could I mix a cream colour to match? Any advice?...maybe old white with one of AS grey tones.
Be really grateful for your expertise and advice. Thank you x x
This is one of the problems with ASCP and doing production work - when I say "production" where you do a series of things at the same time to match.
ReplyDeleteIf the substrates are all different then you will get the paint behaving slightly differently on each one.
If there was staining coming out in the first coat - then it will more than likely come through the wax. Sorry. You could test a section and see but do not be surprised. If it comes through then you will need to sand off the wax and seal the staining with shellac and then recoat. The creaminess is probably a mix of the staining and the Old White - normally Old White verges on the cool side of white - a soft green/grey. Original tends to be a warmer tone.
The modern piece is coming up a very much crisper colour because there is no leaching. There are a couple of ways to get them to match - one is to shellac your coffee table and then putting Old White over and it should come out like the lamp table - brighter than you want, but the same. Or choose a warmer colour and repaint them both.
The other way to try to get them to match is to colour the paint, so try mixing one of the other AS colours in, they come in small 100ml pots too so you don't have to buy another litre. You could also try using dark wax, but do a sample on something to check so as not to be disappointed.
Hope that helps....sorry not to be more definitive
Hello. I'm considering painting aluminum exterior window trim using ASCP. Do you know where I can get information about ASCP for exterior projects?
ReplyDeleteHi there
DeleteI see from your spelling that you are American and I believe the paint is formulated slightly differently.
I am not mad about using the current UK paint outside. I would ask your local retailer or get in touch with Annie Sloan Unfolded for local information.
hi, have a pre painted wardrobe that was painted with Zinsser 123 primer...but it wasn't sanded before this painting.. now chipping!! I have bought AS in old white to cover..will it cover this and not chip again? I have alos bought AS in clear soft wax.
ReplyDeletewant to do the job properly and knowing it wont chip or peel..thanks Claire
The reason it is chipping is that 123 isn't a finish coat, and it works as an inter-coat bonding primer, so it bonds one coat to another. Now in many instances it will go quite hard, but there are certain surfaces that it dislikes. One is silicon, and many prepainted, factory finished pieces of furniture are sprayed before deliver with a release agent that stops the packaging from adhering to still uncured paint surfaces etc. or what is called blocking where newly painted surfaces stick to each other. If you didn't clean off he whole of the surface before putting the 123 on then that is more likely to be the problem. The release agents contain silicon. There are also furniture sprays that have silicon in them.
DeleteYou will probably "get away" with just putting AS Chalk Paint over the whole thing. It is a heavy enough coating to probably lose the instability of the base coat, but I would try this test, get a filling knife and in an inconspicuous place scrape upwards and if the 123 comes off in a sheet, then there is absolutely no adhesion. In that case I would remove all the 123 and start again. The full of thumb is to always wash, sanding is of no consequence with AS paint because of the way it adheres and with all other paints I say sand lightly, not to remove the paint or varnish but mainly to create a key.
Hello, from North Carolina USA!
ReplyDeleteI would like to paint and wax our bedroom furniture - 2 large pieces and a smaller side table (currently a dark brownish orange).
I don't want to purchase more than I need. Can you tell me if I will use less ASCP than I would regular latex or acrylic paint? How does a quart of ASCP compare to a gallon of regular paint?
Can you also offer any advice as to how I clean them on a weekly basis?
After waxing can you place a cup of water on the furniture without worrying about a ring or will we need to protect the finish?
I am grateful for all the time you take to answer so many questions!
The coverage depends on how you use it. Most people say it goes a tremendously long way. Guessing I would say you need 2 litres. The official coverage is 13sq metres per litre. I can't compare your gallons with your quarts....sorry, we do litres and our imperial gallon is different from your US gallon.
DeleteOur care instructions that we put with any piece of waxed furniture that we sell are as follows
"Care of Painted Furniture
Hand painted furniture should be loved! We suggest that it should be treated the same way as you would an antique. Use mats for hot dishes and mugs. Wash with a microfiber cloth and if necessary a mild detergent. Do not use abrasive clothes or cleaning products. Use the sample of wax supplied to repair and renew the surface"
If you like a spray then we recommend the Liberon spray beeswax which says on the packaging - "Nourishes and shines waxed or varnished furniture. Removes dust. Silicone free. Gives off a light scent of honey"
A glass of water shouldn't damage the surface if you got the waxing right. If it damages, you got it wrong....simples. Hot mugs and so on may damage but most times you can refresh the surface with a fresh application of wax.
Hi, first of all lovely informative website.
ReplyDeleteTwo questions, you talk about washing the surfaces before painting, will washing up liquid solution do or do i need a natural soap mixture?
Next question, i intend tp paint my staircase, open so without risers, the threads will obviously be seeing a lot of traffic, i plan to use Versailles, do i use just two layers of AS varnish after, or maybe more in this area of heavy wear? Thanks
Use a good degreaser, I use sugar soap in UK for grease and dirt, TSP is similar, lots of domestic ones work well. All need rinsing. Another good thing to clean modern or spray polished furniture is methylated spirits (aka denatured alcohol in USA).
DeleteYou could use the AS varnish, it isn't my favourite product by any means. I prefer General Finishes varnishes - the high performance topcoat. If you are in UK use my code in the comments box at checkout CARTEBLANCHE2013 for some free applicators.
How long do I have to wait before placing items back on a piece that was painted and waxed? its a desk
ReplyDeleteI would wait at least a week before placing heavy items and possible put a mat to displace some of the weight
DeleteHi Cait
ReplyDeleteI have moved into a period property and although the previous owner seems to have spent a lot on the new gloss blue kitchen, it really isnt to our taste. We have tight budget and was wondering if the AS paint would adhere to the gloss doors or will it ruin an expensive kitchen?
Bit scare and excited all at the same time!
Hi there,
DeleteI wish I could confidently say to go ahead. It all depends what you are looking for. The slick finish will take the paint but how durable it will be I would question. Put it this way, if someone came to me on a professional level and asked me to do a kitchen revamp on a high gloss expensive kitchen it would not be my *go to* paint.
I think you ought to perhaps try it out on the back of a door and see what you think.
There are a lot of reasonably priced and effective systems out there. Some are more pleasant to use than others.
Hi there, I am thinking of painting the stair rails and banisters with ASCP, they are currently painted with white gloss will I have do do some sanding preparation first?
ReplyDeletenot really Bev, unless you have unsightly drips and runs that you want to remove. Clean it well with a degreaser (flash will do) to get off body fats that may have built up and if you use a kitchen scrubby pad it will remove any nibs or basic nasties on the surface. Give it a quick rinse and away you go.
DeleteHello;
ReplyDeleteI am considering purchase of a used leather chair which has serious grease stains at the area at the top of the back of the couch' I assume it is from grease from the hairline of the person who sat on the chair. I doubt it is possible to clean and remove the stain and am wondering about painting the entire chair, would that cover the stain? Any advice and information would be very much appreciated.
Sorry about the delay in replying I have been on the move working abroad and such..I would do my best to remove the grease, even if the stain stays grease and oil is no friend to Chalk Paint. Then I would just test to see...you can always block the stain if it bleeds through and I would use a stain block instead of shellac because shellac is a brittle finish and might crack on a flexible surface. Try Polycell for a spray stainblock that is dry in minutes
DeleteHi Cait! Was wondering if you could help. I'm a chalk paint novice, and recently painted my dining table with Aubusson blue Annie Sloan Paint. However, I think I over-mixed the chalk substance at the bottom of the tin into the paint and now the final colour is a lot lighter than I desired. I've now left the paint tin a week to see if the chalky substance settles out a bit (and leave a darker colour on top) but no such luck. Any suggestions on what I can do? Ideally I dont want to buy more paint as I've still got a whole tin left of this colour.
ReplyDeleteMany thanks, Lucy
Hi Lucy,
DeleteThis should have no affect, the colourant does rise to the top but should always be mixed in anyway. If the colour is different from the colour card I would return it to your supplier and ask for another one. Otherwise, you can add some colourant to it - what you want to look for is Universal Stainer or Universal Tinting Colorant.
*********PLEASE NOTE THAT WE ARE NO LONGER TAKING QUESTIONS ON ANNIE SLOAN PAINT. WE ARE NO LONGER STOCKISTS AND SINCE THE PAINT HAS CHANGED A LITTLE IN UK SINCE WE WERE USING IT REGULARLY WE FEEL UNABLE TO GIVE ACCURATE ADVICE ABOUT THE PAINT. WE SUGGEST CONTACTING YOUR LOCAL SUPPLIER OR HEAD OFFICE OXFORD FOR ACCURATE UP TO DATE TECHNICAL INFORMATION**********
ReplyDelete